Meet the Matriarchs Behind the Stoves

LUANG PRABANG, Laos: Nestled between the still Nam Khan river and the hustle and bustle of Luang Prabang is a restaurant that does more than just serve food; it changes lives too.

Dyen Sabai, which means “a cool place” in Lao, welcomed its first customers in 2008. Just 4 years after its opening, it was accredited by Lonely Planet in 2012 as “one of Luang Prabang’s top destinations for fabulous Lao food” and continues defending its title even today.

Behind the restaurant’s success stands French-Canadian Nathalie Pouliot, 52, who had migrated to Laos in the 2000s.

She had decided to settle down in Luang Prabang after falling in love with the scenery, people and culture in Laos, and specifically, Luang Prabang. She then decided to open Dyen Sabai as a source of income for herself.

Ms Pouliot shared: “Dyen Sabai primarily offers Sindat, a type of Lao barbecue which includes grilling meat like buffalo meat over a hot-pot like stove. Other than Sindat, we offer fusion food including food from Lao and Western culture. We offer a variety of food to cater to tourists and accommodate those who may prefer vegan or vegetarian options as well.”

These recipes for Sindat are then transformed into reality by main chef Mee Song, 29, and head chef Vilaiphone Vang, 23, who spent much of their youth honing their skills in the kitchen of Dyen Sabai.

Their journeys from humble beginnings to culinary excellence serve as inspiring anecdotes of how the restaurant has become a catalyst for personal growth — offering them a chance to carve out a life-changing and remarkable culinary journey.

The Journey of Chef Songmy

At the tender age of 17, Ms Mee Song, or Songmy as she prefers to be called, joined Dyen Sabai as a cook despite lacking any prior experience working in a kitchen.

She had to adjust to a steep learning curve, and went from not knowing how to tell the difference between certain ingredients, to being able to deftly whip up Laotian dishes like an oft-practised dance.

But the journey wasn’t easy – she spent hours at work observing and learning from the other chefs she worked with, and in just 12 years, has become the restaurant’s main chef.

When she is in her element, she barely speaks to the other chefs and cooks under her charge.

All it takes is a few knowing glances and the slightest of nods from the mother of three, and the rest of the kitchen functions like a well-oiled machine, ready to dish out the next order.

Her determination to improve her skills was what caught Ms Pouliot’s attention.

“We often take cooks without experience because we prefer training them ourselves,” said the restaurant’s founder. “If they’ve come from a culinary school, sometimes they think they can work better than the staff we train when they actually can’t.”

She added: “Cleanliness is very important to me, and although Songmy had no experience whatsoever, she managed to learn our recipes and maintain the highest standards of hygiene.”

The attention to detail, coupled with her natural talent in the culinary field, prompted Ms Pouliot to entrust Ms Songmy with the position of main chef.

Just as she is a mother at home, she also plays a motherly role in the kitchen, nurturing the potential of her young charges while reminding them that hard work and determination can make dreams come true.

The Journey of Chef Pu

Ms Vilaiphone Vang, or Pu as she prefers to be called, serves as another anecdotal testament to the transformative power of Dyen Sabai.

Her passion for cooking started at a young age when she would watch her own mother work at Dyen Sabai as a cook.

When job openings opened up, Ms Pouliot decided to take a leap of faith and hire Ms Pu, who had never worked in a restaurant before.

Despite her youth, she outperformed some of the former cooks and, in just 2 years, climbed to the rank of head chef at the age of 18, now leading up to 18 people at any one time.

Ms Pouliot said: “When Pu was young, her mom told me she didn’t want to go back to school and wanted to learn how to cook. With the agreement of her mom, we put her into the kitchen and we taught her the recipes at Dyen Sabai.

“After a year, we could see she had a lot of potential. She was unafraid of telling other chefs what to do – a rarity among Lao people, who don’t like confrontation or giving orders. After two years, I knew that she deserved the head chef position.”

With grace and expertise, Ms Pu now oversees the kitchen as a young head chef, inspiring a new generation of aspiring female chefs to break through barriers and strive for greatness.

Empowerment and Lasting Impact

Beyond being a renowned culinary destination, Dyen Sabai provides life-changing opportunities that transform the trajectories of individuals like Ms Songmy and Ms Pu.

These stories of empowerment and growth epitomise the impact that Dyen Sabai has on the lives of aspiring chefs in Luang Prabang.

When asked whether she would continue taking in chefs with minimal experience, Ms Pouliot nodded, saying she preferred to do so and train them from scratch.

Dyen Sabai stands as a testament to the immense impact that can be achieved when women are given the space, support, and opportunities to thrive.

By celebrating their talents and providing a platform for their culinary creativity, Dyen Sabai paves the way for a more inclusive and empowering future in the culinary world. ∎